BLESSINGS IN BLOOM: Amaryllis
By Kerry Peetz
“Where flowers bloom so does hope.” — Lady Bird Johnson.
If you haven’t experienced the amaryllis, you should, and if you have, you know that its beauty can only be described as spectacular!
Amaryllis may be purchased as bare or planted bulbs, they are prized for their exotic, gigantic trumpet-shaped flowers towering atop a 1- to 2-foot leafless stalk. They add dramatic color to homes and make wonderful gifts to gardeners from beginners to experts.
Native to Africa, the genus Amaryllis comes from the Greek word “amarysso,” which means “to sparkle.” Bulbs were brought to Europe in the 1700s and have been known to bloom for up to 75 years.
The amaryllis bulbs we commonly purchase and grow as houseplants are hybrids of the genus Hippeastrum and are native to Central and South America.
Amaryllis flowers range from 4 to 10 inches in size and can be either single or double form. While the most popular Christmas colors are red and white, flowers are also available in pink, salmon, apricot, rose or deep burgundy.
When selecting bulbs choose the largest bulbs available. Larger bulbs will produce more stalks and blooms. Bulbs should be firm and dry with no signs of mold, decay or injury.
It is common to see new growth (leaves, buds) emerging from bare or planted bulbs. Choose bulbs with bright green new growth and without spots or visible damage. Some bulbs may have an offshoot growing from its base. This will eventually grow into a new bulb and can be removed and planted separately.
Amaryllis grow best in narrow containers. Containers may be made of plastic, metal, ceramic or terracotta. Select a container that has one or more holes in the bottom and drains easily. Good drainage will minimize the chance of bulb or root rot (rotting from excess moisture). The diameter of the pot should be approximately one inch wider than the widest part of the bulb and twice as tall as the bulb to allow space for healthy root development.
When planting fill the pot about half full with sterile, new potting soil high in organic matter such as peat moss. Set the bulb in the pot so the roots rest on the potting soil. The bulb should sit up above the edge of the container. Add more soil, tapping it down around the bulb, until one-third to one-half of the bulb remains visible above soil. Firm the potting medium around the bulb.
Place the pot in a sink where it can drain freely and water until the potting soil is thoroughly moist. Allow to drain completely. Set the pot on a saucer and in a sunny window.
After the flower has faded, remove the flower head just below the petals to prevent seed formation. Allow the stalk to remain, as it continues to feed the bulb through photosynthesis, which creates energy that is stored then in the bulb. Remove this only after the stalk has turned yellow, shriveled and died. Continue to provide a weekly feeding of blossom-boosting fertilizer mixed according to the package directions. The bulb will grow bigger and add leaves. Keep feeding until there are seven leaves.
Amaryllis does not require a dormant period in order to flower. You may continue to grow your plant outdoors in the summer. However, if you want to have Amaryllis flowers around Christmastime, you must force dormancy about 10 weeks before you wish to see these stunning flowers indoors. Once the seventh leaf has appeared, stop watering and allow the bulb to dry out, which promotes dormancy. Place the pot with the bulb in a cool dark place for at least two months. Allow the leaves to die back before cutting them off. When you are ready for another flower, place the potted bulb in a sunny window and resume watering and fertilizing. You should see a new blossom in seven to nine weeks.
A-Mary-llis: A flower that must be blooming just for Mary who gave birth to Jesus and wrapped him in swaddling clothes, and laid him in a manger (Lk 2:7).
Merry Christmas!
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